Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Outlook, Saskatchewan - It's Outlook on the Library System

The sign at the front entrance to the public library in Outlook, says Wheatland Community Library, however, access to its Internet WIFI is restricted to the staff and students in the school in which it is housed. 

This public library in this town is private when it comes to accessing the World Wide Web.

Outlook is located approximately 94 kilometres south of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, on Highway 219.

Frank and I stood in front of the librarian and explained to her that I’m a writer and most of my material is stored on my hard drive and on a web cloud. Also, I must verify my facts and most I can research on the Internet. “Do you have free WIFI?”

Bar with free WIFI, Outlook, SK
“No. There is no Internet access here in this library for the public. It is for the exclusive use of the school staff and the students. You can get WIFI at the café down the street or at the bar,” the librarian said.

I felt defeated. Frank and I have been on the road for three years now, visiting as many small towns and their senior centres and libraries as possible. Even if the library has restricted days and hours, they've always had a keen sense that it is in their interest to provide free Internet access to whoever comes through their doors.

Outlook, SK, Town Office
The good news is that my explanation to the Town Office Manager, Trent, resulted in my having access to their Internet WIFI and a comfortable chair at a table in the art centre. We left a thank you card with his staff to pass along to him on our way out.

Life is good.

Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Tugaske, Saskatchewan - It's Not a Temple

Masonic Temple/Lodge
According to Dorothy and Lynn of Tugaske, the Masonic Temple is now owned by a local artist who had the interior modified a bit from its previous life as a bank. We are standing together on the sidewalk across from the lodge in front of the Canada Post building.

“My mother used to work at that bank in the 1920s,” Dorothy says. “It’s not a temple, it’s a lodge. The Masons aren’t here anymore. They were kind of like the Kinsmen.”

Town Hall 1910
The building kitty-corner to it displays a shield inscribed with Town Hall 1910. It is also privately owned and in disrepair. Lynn reports that the new owners had made big promises but have left it rotting for years. They point out that the hotel is also vacant and the restaurant closed.

“You might also like to know that our church is abandoned now too. The roof was leaking and the repairs didn’t take, the heat was turned off and now small animals have taken it over. We meet in the community hall for services. The Pastor comes from Saskatoon every two weeks,” says Dorothy.

United Church - unused
The ladies excuse themselves saying that they’ve been standing too long and need to go home and rest.

My exploration of the town takes me across the dusty gravel street to Westbridgeford Meats Ltd. A woman is standing under the canopy. I ask if it is her business, she says yes and invites me in. The pungent odor of decaying meat fills my nostrils and makes my eyes water. She explains and that she once bred Jack Russell dogs and fed them ground meat and leftovers from her daily butchering. She now specializes as a dog food producer.

Westbridge Meats Ltd.
“We used to own the only grocery store in town with the meat rendering plant in the back. Some years ago, the whole thing burned down, we rebuilt the meat business and that’s all we do now,” she says.

The meat packing plant and the Co-op garage seem to be the only businesses holding the town in its location. Tugaske is 170 kilometers south of Saskatoon.

That same day, Frank met Dave, a guitar builder who often has international students stay in the town for seven weeks and learn how to build guitars. At the end of their stay, they return home with the guitar they have built. At the moment, one of his students is from Israel and another is from Chicago.

Later that day, we met Violet, the librarian. The library is a great resource for the locals who attend it on the three days of the week and the short hours it is open. Like many of the other towns we’ve visited this summer, the library is sometimes the only gathering place.

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Davidson and Loreburn, Saskatchewan

Big White in Davidson, SK
On August 29, 2017, we pulled into Davidson, Saskatchewan, located 115 km south of Saskatoon, on Highway 11.

Our intention of only spending one night at the campground was dashed when we saw its clean condition and practical location.  We spent a precious four days there.

Each campsite has a sturdy picnic table, an electrical outlet (which we don’t use because we have our solar panels), well-developed broadleaved trees and cut grass.

Davidson campground
The road throughout the property is gravelled and the free public washrooms are cleaned daily and have great shower capacity, a porcelain sink and toilet and an always fully stocked paper towel dispenser – all this for $18.00 dollars a day.

We visited the library and met Victoria, a lovely young woman who provided us with a resource area for hooking up to the Internet with our laptop and cups of coffee during our time there.

We agreed with her explanation that libraries throughout Saskatchewan are under threat by being underfunded and it becomes the responsibility of the poorly-paid librarian to come up with practical ways to keep its doors open for the benefit of the public. She volunteers a great deal of her time as a lover of books in print and as a devoted member of the town’s society.  “Google can bring you back 100,000 answers, a librarian can bring you back the right one.” Source ebookfriendly.com

During our stay, we backed our Ural bike off the trailer and toured the community in style. 

Metis fiddler and Red River cart
There is a great rest stop off the highway at the entrance to Davidson. The tall structure of a Metis fiddler is impressive as is the preserved road building belly dump vehicle and an earth scooper from the 1800s to 1930s. The coffee percolator and drinking cup bring a smile to our faces. We saw a few others throughout the town.

Coffee percolator and cup
On day three, we took a 46.5 km ride on Highway 44 west to Loreburn. I asked Frank to stop at an abandoned farmhouse along the way. The structure was impressive with its peaked roof, large windows, and significant front veranda. It must have been a grand home in its day.

Abandoned farmhouse
Our walk through Loreburn included a visit with the librarian, who confirmed with Victoria from Davidson, that libraries are hard to keep open. She admitted that folks can just call in for a book, or read stories on their electronic devices, or ignore the efforts she makes to keep the doors of the gathering place open. She admitted that it is her passion for books that keep her there – underpaid and overworked with volunteer efforts.

The following day, we loaded the bike, filled our water tank to capacity and headed down the road.

Monday, August 28, 2017

Harris, Saskatchewan - Where a Brothel Thrived

Big White at the Once Was Brothel
The first and only people we meet outdoors in the small village of Harris, 81 km south-west of Saskatoon, is a middle-aged man working in his large yard and his daughter. He declares that he got the house and vacant property beside it for a fair price, likely, he boasts, because at one time it was a brothel. Its proximity to the hotel is a giveaway he says.

Aside from that interesting bit of history, the town is well maintained, has a bountiful museum and displays its past on brass plaques stationed along many of the avenues and streets.

Autographs and Comments Welcome
We begin our self-guided tour by signing our names on the fence on Railroad Street and notice immediately that the hotel beside it is operating a lounge and possibly some rooms to rent.

Harris Hotel
Deeper into the community, there are several homes that are well looked after and others that are not. Further down this foot route, we find the Mason Temple & Evergreen Tree hidden behind some large bushes. This property is a municipal heritage possession these days and sadly has been attacked by some who use graffiti to identify themselves.

Mason Temple & Evergreen Tree

On Main Street, there are two churches sitting kitty-corner to one another. Both are boarded up, unused.

Two churches in Harris, SK
Further down sits the New Horizons Centre with the words Orange Temple imprinted on the concrete walk leading to the building. We believe this building to be the senior centre. The Orange Order was born in the charged sectarian climate of northern Ireland in the late 1700s to defend the interests of Protestant settlers against the native Irish Catholics. (source http://esask.uregina.ca/entry/orange_order.html

New Horizons Centre, Harris, SK
We end our stroll back at the bus and board her ready for the next exploration of another fabulous town in Saskatchewan. Less than 6 km south of Harris is a rest stop on the right-hand side of the road. These much needed soft places to land for an avid traveller are far and few between in this province.

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Zealandia – A Town in Transition

Flag of Saskatchewan
We stand with one of the librarians in Rosetown, Saskatchewan, a small community 152 kilometres west of Saskatoon on Highway 14, listening to her explain that there are no real communities worth visiting east of here on Highway 7. ‘You’re only an hour from Saskatoon, so why stop at any of the towns?’ she says. We explain that our mission is to visit as many small towns on secondary roads in the prairies as possible, meet the residents and write about them and their community. She has no comment.

Garage of the past
Twenty kilometres east on Highway 7, we pull into the quaint and well-kept town of Zealandia. We park Big White beside a weather beaten boarded up ageing garage. It was established in the early 1900s. A few strides into our hike, we come across a cenotaph for WW1 and WW2 veterans from the local area and a beautiful playground area purchased and constructed by the Elks No. 292.

Frank at Cenotaph
The wide gravelled roads are flanked by trimmed grass, tall trees and a sidewalk. We get the impression that we’re in a well-maintained park. A while later, we meet a young man detailing his truck. His name is Chris. We ask about the availability of water to fill our container and he offers to help in true Saskatchewan hospitable fashion. He explains that most folks living in Zealandia work in Rosetown and have purchased homes here because they are ‘cheap’.

Fun things in a well-tended yard
We continue our walk and admire the new homes and the old. Each structure offers a sense of Zealandia in transition. A coiffured yard with an RV and two upscale cars could tell a tale of the people who occupy the grand house, while the property next to it reveals an empty abode covered with spider webs clinging to its broken windows and four-foot high wild flowers claiming every inch of its yard. Who lived there? What might have been their occupation? When did they move away, and why?

Empty house is hidden behind its yard
The crunch of gravel under my feet puts a smile on my face and slows my pace.

I catch up to Frank who is having a lively conversation with a woman laying on a hammock in her back yard. She is explaining that Zealandia has had two fires in its history. No dates are offered but she is saying that the town’s people rebuilt the community buildings after the first, only to have another devastating fire soon after. From her yard, we can see the bell atop the fire hall.

Fire hall and Town Office
In the early evening, we sip coffee beside our bus and are greeted several times by other locals. We feel welcome and appreciated. No one questions why we are camping in their town. Frank tells me that he could live here in a heartbeat. Location. Location. Location.

Big White in Zealandia, Saskatchewan

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Come in When the Light is On

Village Square, Perdue, SK
Every village in Canada has a unique set of characters living in it and Perdue, Saskatchewan, has a full deck of cards. We met six of them the first day we arrived at this quaint community located sixty-three kilometres west of Saskatoon on Highway 14.

We are greeted at the front door of the New Horizon’s Senior Centre by its President, Jean. She is sporting a dramatic oversized coat of many colours and has a beautiful smile on her face. She shares with us later that she is over ninety years old.

Our host guides us over to the table where there sit three other women. The table is covered with two large plates of homemade and store-bought cookies, a container filled with cream, a bowl of white sugar and a stack of napkins. 

Grain elevator in Perdue, SK
We are invited to sit and Joyce is the first to introduce herself. She presents a big smile and extends her hand to Frank first and then me. She explains that she’s lived in Perdue her whole life and asks if we’ve ever heard of the game of broomball. Before we can answer, she explains that Perdue was the first Canadian city to host the game of broomball back in 1908. She keeps our attention for a while. 

Next, we are introduced to Elsie, who, unfortunately, has forgotten her hearing aids at home and is only able to say her name and smile. We learn the next day, when we meet Elsie again at the centre, that she loves store-bought cookies best because she bakes so many homemade treats for the club.

Cora sits quietly, her body likely racked in discomfort, I imagine because she’s stooped forward and her face is grimaced with pain. 
The others speak to her but she doesn’t often respond.

Later, Gerald and his wife, Esther enter the centre. They sit comfortably around the conversation table and are served coffee and treats by Jean, today’s hostess. They ask us two of the most familiar questions, ‘Where are you from?’ and ‘What brings you to Perdue?’

Big White at the Perdue campsite
We claim Vancouver Island as our starting point and are delighted to share with them that we’ve been on the road living in our RV for nearly three years. We explain our intention to visit as many hamlets, villages and towns as possible on our direct route from one housesit to the next.

Our new friends express their delight in our having chosen their campsite as our layover for a few days. We let them know it’s our pleasure and that they are some of the friendliest folks we’ve met.

“You’re welcome anytime, Susan and Frank. But check the light above the door. When it’s on, someone is here so come on in.”

Thursday, July 13, 2017

Canwood Famous for Bannock

Frank Enjoys Bannock at Canwood Cafe
The Village of Canwood, Saskatchewan, located in the north section of the province, sixty-five kilometres south-east of Big River is famous for its bannock. This luxurious bread has simple ingredients and is produced in a variety of ways, including deep fried. The clever woman who makes it works at the Canwood Café. She and the owner also offer friendly banter. They would love to meet you.

Canwood Commemorative Sign 
The community centennial commemorative iron monument at the highway entrance into the Village displays a fine assortment of characteristics common to the province and this small gentle getaway among your northern Saskatchewan adventures. 

From every street corner, you have a grand view of the working grain elevators that stood beside the long-gone railway tracks. Now, these magnificent sentinels seemingly stand on guard for the towns’ people. On Main Street, Young’s Garage is a display of past prairie architecture. 

Canwood Grain Elevator
Young's Garage
There are a few buildings for sale, some in need of either repair or full demolition. Their history includes the existence of a coin laundry, a billiards game room, a confectionary and snack bar, a Bargain Shoppe and a Pawn Shop. 

The lively elements of the village are attributed to the horticulture volunteers as demonstrated by the manicured park in the centre of town, the Village Administrator and workers who keep the place tidy and prideful with large displays of red and white flowers to celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday.  

Susan stands in the village garden
The knowledgeable Municipal District Administrator is proud to show the map of the vast area under their jurisdiction. It’s populous at large are the bright lights of this most worthwhile community. Every person we spoke with had an upbeat, friendly attitude towards their town and one another.